Some pigs are more heritage than others
Tom Philpott documents the history of Americans’ alienation from food production, and argues that the resurgence of Julia-Child-driven “weekend cooking” in the ’70s set the stage for today’s back-to-the-dirt food movement. We’re not so sure — we think the former was about class aspirations and the latter is more populist.
I'm not sure how much any food "movement" based mainly on finding more-local-than-thou food "products" to buy can be construed as "back-to-the-dirt" or populist. The "movement" mainly seems to be about invoking a sentimental nostalgia to justify the consumption of expensive and elitist animal products. Oh, sorry, "heritage pork." "Humanely harvested," of course. By someone else.
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